I found the travel essay that I read at http://www.czajkowski.co.uk/Samoa/samoaessay1.htm
We discovered that a mythical South-seas charm can still be found on Samoa.
Our plane descended between Upolu and Savaii, the two largest islands of Samoa. Dramatic volcanic craters towered high with exaggerated cartoon-like profiles, and the jungle below, dense in coconut palm trees, looked lush and steamy even from the air. We had arrived to spend a week in Samoa, opting for the natural and simple
rather than the luxurious, not that there would have been many options for the latter.
Until recently called Western Samoa, and distinguished from its wealthier and more westernised neighbour American Samoa by it independence and stronger adherence to its traditional roots, Samoa is a unique combination of South Sea paradise and traditional culture. Paul Theroux, the renowned travel-writer, wrote of Samoa “Take this place seriously and you’re dead!”. Not much danger there – how could one take seriously such surreal contrasts as children walking everywhere without shoes, yet carrying brand new and expensive rugby boots; or villagers, living the simplest of rural existences in the jungle without electricity, meticulously preening their plots with diesel grass strimmers, tending to immaculate gardens that would put most of Hampstead to shame. 
We had chosen the Seipepa Samoan Travel Home as our base for exploring both Apia and the island of Upolu. This unique hostel is almost always full thanks to the cult status that it is acquiring among travellers. It is run by Mats and Sia, a Swede and his Samoan wife. Having
been overwhelmed by the friendliness and hospitality of the Samoan people, Mats wanted other travellers to experience the same hospitality. The home is a tranquil haven in the Apia back-streets, set among Banana and Hibiscus plants, and is on the same plot as most of Mats and Sia’s family – some 30 or so Samoans of every age. Each morning we rose to a shared breakfast of local tropical fruit served on a Banana leaf, washed down with fresh Samoan coffee in a coconut-shell – admiring the floor beautifully decorated in flowers and leaves – a different design every day. The originality of this authentic experience is reflected even in the price – there isn’t one! Visitors are asked to pay whatever they feel to be a fair price on departure. But how do you put a price on a stay in paradise?
The sleepy steamy port of Apia, the Capital, is a scraggly collection of buildings around a harbour. Heading for the main market, often the best way to absorb local colour, we passed locals fishing in traditional outrigger canoes or standing immersed up to their chests. By the water’s edge others sold long lines with ten or more fish attached. In the very centre of the town, Samoa’s only cash-machine stood guarded by a security man, not to protect tourists from theft, we were told, but rather to stop the local inquisitive children playing with the buttons.
The market was hot and dusty, and packed with locals selling produce of every description. Piles of coconuts, tarot root and paw-paw filled every available space, whilst clusters of bread-fruit filled beautiful hand-weaved Pandanus-leaf baskets. Whole branches of Bananas, may be 300 or more, sold for 8 Tala (around £1.75). Beside
the market was the bustling bus-station, where the beautiful brightly-coloured wooden buses, with loud music blaring, came and went with great regularity. In a moment of rashness, with no idea of its destination or of the protocol for being a passenger, we boarded a bus and set-off for a mystery journey. At first the bus made several journeys between the two bus-stations, filling up the available places. When we finally left Apia, we were immediately thrust into the lush interior, passing small villages full of happy Samoans playing Kirikit (the local cricket) among the fale. These are the traditional Samoan houses – and are unique in that they have no walls. The sides have only ebony pillars around a metre apart. All the possessions of a Samoan household are in full view of the entire world. Chests of drawers and cabinets with the family heirlooms stand open to the elements, protected from rain only by thatched blinds that can be lowered when needed. There is no privacy in a Samoan village. We would often walk through the Apia suburbs in the evening, passing open fales where entire families watched television, ate or slept behind invisible walls.
Having left the bus before disappearing for ever into the interior of Upolu, we wandered back into Apia, admiring the beautifully manicured lawns. And so we explored Apia and the island of Upolu for a couple of days, swimming on pristine beaches, passing dramatic jungle waterfalls tumbling into beautiful pools, and snorkelling over vibrant coral in our search for clown-fish.
Apia has two historic buildings famed throughout the South pacific. Samoa drew Robert Luis Stevenson to settle for the last four years of his life, and his beautifully restored home, Vailima, is rich in evidence of the special place that the locals held for the great story teller. Tutuila (“Storey Teller”) they called him, and so saddened were they by his death that they carried him to the top of a local mountain where his tomb stands to this day. A sticky one-hour walk takes you to the tomb, with stunning views over Apia and the surf breaking on the reef beyond. At the other end of Apia is Aggy Grey’s Hotel, with legendary status comparable with Raffles in Singapore or the Savoy in London, where movie stars and soldiers escaping the drudgery of American Samoa sipped cocktails and watched exotic Polinesian dancers. Talk to the doorman or the receptionist, and they will tell you of personal meetings with Princes Andrew and Edward.
Apia and Upolu are a great introduction to Samoa, but to experience Fa’a Samoa (“the Samoan way”) at its most authentic you need to escape and head for the villages of Savaii, the second island. It is here that you discover the warmest of people and the most stunning scenery, with unspoilt beaches, soaring volcanic peaks and craters, and pristine rainforest. We rented one of the few jeeps on Savaii, and after a somewhat bureaucratic 30 minutes spent finding the right place to obtain the Samoan driver’s licence, we set of. It soon became evident that three hands were required for driving in Samoa – two for the mundane task of controlling the vehicle and one for waving at all the happy village children along the road. On the most remote roads we would come across long lines of children walking to school, dressed in the most beautifully coloured school uniforms, the boys in bright lavalavas (wrap-around skirts – the traditional male dress). Show these children a camera, and they instantly arrange themselves into a collective pose.
We passed through sleepy village after sleepy village, avoiding pigs and chickens, and flying cricket balls. Coiled Pandanus leaves lay drying in the sun outside fales, whilst Samoans lay sleeping inside on mats woven from past crops of leaves. We passed entire families sitting in the sea immersed up to their necks, fully clothed, cooling-off Samoan style. And the heat was certainly challenging. However, a refreshing drink was never far away in the form of a fresh coconut. On one occasion, a young boy appeared with a large machete knife to open the coconut for us. I wanted to change my mind and spare his hand, but I need not have worried. These people learn from an early age to harness the wealth of natural produce from their jungle.
Its difficult to describe the richness of the vegetation in Samoa. Coconut palms are everywhere, interspersed with
banana trees, papaya, bread-fruit, tarot, ebony, mahogany… – the list seems to be endless. In some areas, the rainforest is magnificent, with majestic trees towering high into the canopy, and long lania vines dangling everywhere, crying out to the Tarzan in me to have a swing. The whole look and feel of Samoa is like some strange mythical tropical place that could only exist in a movie. Imagine the jungle in the Disney film “Jungle Book” and you have a pretty good starting point.
At the far north-western tip of Savaii we came across the fabled village of Falealupo, where Dr Paul Cox, a botanist living among the villagers in the 1980’s, saved the rainforest and the flying foxes from the logging companies who had traded logging rights for money to pay for an essential village school. He bought-out the logging company and raised the money needed to pay for the local school, thereby saving the forest – only to watch it devastated by the worst Cyclone in history in February 1990, and by subsequent fires. Today, a suspended walkway 25 metres above the forest floor stretches between Banyan trees – a testimony to Paul Cox’s efforts, showing how the rainforest can generate money for the village non-destructively.
Although you can sleep on a platform at the top of the Banyan tree, we selected to stay in a beach-fale, which is no more than a platform on the beach covered by a thatched roof. Our host, Levi, spoke virtually no English, but we managed to agree a price for the night with dinner and breakfast, whilst I anxiously eyed the two-foot machete he held in his hand, and the Samoan tattoos circling his arms and waist. This is the last place the sun sets each day, before crossing the international date-line, and there really is nothing at this extremity of the world except a beautiful beach, wild crashing sea, and forests of dense coconut palms. We strung-out our mosquito net over the mattresses, beautifully presented and laid on Pandanus-leaf mats, and settled down to watch the sun cross into tomorrow. We had heard from other travellers that one could expect a beach fale meal to consist of rice and a tin of mackerel. We were therefore taken aback when, just after sunset, Levi and his two children appeared with a dinner of fresh lobster, fish, tarot and breadfruit, accompanied by chicken and noodles
and all washed down by masses of local cocoa. As we sat and read through a visitor’s book that Levi had proudly produced for us to sign, he busied himself by wandering around the beach picking up branches and stones that were out of place, and lighting our oil-lamps. The night was full of humid hot air, glorious south-sea-night stars and crashing of surf – with only the thin mosquito net between us and the vast insect world outside. On the horizon, the lights of villagers in canoes fishing through the night bobbed up and down. In the morning, after a healthy breakfast, Levi thanked us for our money which would be important to his family. We gave his wife a lift to a meeting of the village women’s group some two miles along the coast, stopping only to pick up her sister and to allow the other villagers to admire our proud passengers.
Driving down the South-East coast of Savaii you pass the Taga blow-holes. These are underground funnels in the lava, where the crashing surf builds up pressure released as jets of water and spray blowing high into the air. Locals throw coconuts into the holes with excellent timing, to have them sent over a hundred feet into the air. Further down the coast, we followed instructions to reach the Afu Afu waterfall and its magnificent crystal-clear plunge pool surrounded by jungle and tumbling water. We had to descend a precarious slope holding on for dear-life to a thoughtfully-grown jungle-vine, but the swim among the fresh-water shrimp in the refreshing turquoise water was worth the climb.
Back in Apia, our last day in Samoa was a Sunday, a day we had been particularly looking forward to experiencing Samoan-style. The Samoan people are devoutly religious (mostly Christian), and It is said that there are even more churches in Apia than in Rome. On Sunday mornings all Samoans go to church and sing their hearts out.
They then go home and partake in a massive traditional feast cooked in an underground oven (Umu), and then sleep for the rest of the day! We awoke to find Upolu clad in layers of smoke from Umu ovens cooking lunch throughout the island. Severely underdressed, compared with the locals in their white Sunday-best, we sat at the back of a hot and humid church listening to the singing, beautifully delivered in four-part harmony. Then it was time to watch the Umu being opened in
preparation for lunch. The men removed the layers of Pandanus-leaf mats, Bread-fruit leaves and Tarot leaves and finally the carefully positioned hot stones, to reveal an assortment of cooked delicacies. The meal was again eaten cross-legged on the floor of a beautifully decorated fale. The feast included pork, raw fish and a tuna bake in coconut shells, Palusami (coconut cream wrapped and cooked in tender Tarot leaves) with whole UMU-naked Bread-fruit and Tarot root all presented on a Banana leaf. This was one of the best meals I have eaten, and at 15 Tala (around £3) one of the best value. Indeed, all the restaurants at which we ate in Apia were excellent. George’s Pizzas, in an unkempt upstairs balcony, served us one of the best Pizzas we have ever eaten, Italy included! Sails, in front of the harbour, not only served us excellent food but also laid on a personal waiter who was so sad when we were leaving that he worked on a Sunday night just so he could serve us.
And this is exactly the kind of slight quirkiness that you come to expect in this remarkable country. Whilst one shouldn’t take Paul Theroux’s statement about Samoa too literally, if his intention was to warn you to expect the unexpected at all times, then he was spot-on. It is a country rich in unique culture and natural beauty. At a time when growth in Eco-tourism outpaces all other forms of travel, Samoa has something to offer everyone who venture to this extremity of the world. You will also be hard-pressed to find more friendly and genuine people anywhere. It’s hard to impart just how natural and unprepared for tourism these islands are. Only around 40,000 people visit every year, and many of these are friends or family. In Samoa, what you see is what you get. You will find that spending half a day looking for anywhere that will sell you a postcard is not so much frustrating, but rather immensely refreshing. Finding stamps or a pen to write the cards with is another story!
Destination Details:
Location
Independent Samoa (formerly Western Samoa, and usually simply called Samoa) is an independent Polynesian nation in the South Pacific, around 12 degrees south of the Equator, North of Tonga, West of American Samoa and South of Kiribati.
Getting there
Igor and Michelle visited Samoa on an independent holiday. Air New Zealand fly to Samoa from Los Angeles, Honolulu and Auckland. Air pacific Polynesian Airlines additionally connect Samoa with Fiji, Tonga and American Samoa. Savaii can be reached from Upolu by daily flighs with Polynesian Airlines, or by car-fery.
Further reading
Recommended guide books are the “Lonely Planet Guide to Samoa”, and the “Moon Handbook to Samoa, Tonga and Nuie” by David Stanley. “Nafanua – Saving the Samoan Rainforest” by Dr. Paul Alan Cox gives an excellent account of the author’s years living in the Falealupo village in Savaii. “Leaves of the Banyan Tree” by Albert Wendt is an award-winning novel addressing many of the social pressures in Samoan life.
Accommodation
The accommodations mentioned in the feature are the Seipepa Samoan Travel Home in Apia, and the Tanumatiu Beach Fale in Falealupo village, Savaii.
All content and images © Igor Czajkowski 2002